The Ultimate Guide to Baleal Surf - Surf Atlas (2024)

by Joseph Richard Francis

written by Joseph Richard Francis Published: Updated:

The Baleal surf is the beginner offering of Peniche. It takes you to a town just north of Peniche itself where you get two beaches with better protection that others down the coast. It’s the top place to go if you want surf camps or surf schools, especially when the swells get bigger after the fall.

An introduction to Baleal surf

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Baleal is often seen as an extension of Peniche but it’s sort of come into its own in the last couple of years, offering some of the more protected breaks on this long run of what’s now legendary surf shoreline.

That’s all down to the shape of the coast, which protrudes out into a fishhook-shaped island that’s fringed on its northern side by a run of beaches that have fantastic shelter from the biggest W and NW swells, plus those killer Atlantic onshores.

The upshot? The breaks here tend to be tempered and small compared to Supertubos and Nazare and others that face direct into the ocean. It’s for that reason that surf camps have popped up in the town ad infinitum and you get some of the very best total-beginner offerings in Portugal if you ask us.

Beyond the waves, Baleal is a charming town of whitewashed cottages. Prettier than Peniche, it also has it’s own buzzy nightlife scene and stretch of cantinas with views of the surf.

We might use affiliate links in this post. Basically, you click em’ and we get a little something from your booking or purchase. They help us keep offering more and more in-depth surf guides to awesome places all around the globe. So, thanks for that!

This guide is just one part of our complete guide to surfing Portugal

Baleal at a glance

Wave type: Beach breaks // Level: Beginners (but all levels come) // Season: All year, smaller in summer

The good…

  • Some of the best beginner waves in Portugal
  • Excellent surf camps within walking distance of beach
  • Easy to reach from Lisbon

The bad

  • Baleal is busy these days
  • A couple of bad surf camps mixed in with the good

What’s in this guide to Baleal surf?

Where is Baleal?

Baleal is a part of the Leiria District of Portugal, which spreads north from the city of Lisbon along a coastline that’s become super-famous for its waves. Most surfers look to nearby Peniche, which is only 3km to the south of Baleal itself. You can get between the two in a taxi (20 euro) or by car (10 minutes). More generally, the town occupies a small tombolo (a isthmus beach) that offers surf on two sides. The nearest airport is in Lisbon.

How to get to Baleal?

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Obviously you’ll need to fly to Portugal first. Lisbon Airport (LIS) is the best access point for getting near to Baleal. It’s only 42 miles away to the southeast. The good news is the airport in the capital also has the largest array of flights for getting to and from Portugal from both Europe and the US.

We always use Skyscanner to search for flights. It helps you compare cheapest dates for departures in a month at a glance. And it even compares the low-cost carriers, like Ryanair and easyJet.

Once on the ground, first, aim to get to Peniche. That’s easy from Lisbon, because there are hourly or even half-hourly buses RedeExpressos out of the Sete Rios station on the north side of the city. The fare is just under $10 each, each way. We rode with them in 2018 and they didn’t seem to have an issue with boards, but we’ve heard that’s changed.

Obviously, the faster and comfier way to go is to rent a car. Book them to be collected from Lisbon Airport using RentalCars.com. They are our go-to site for hires all over Europe, mainly because most bookings have free cancellation up to like 24 hours before pick up.

Baleal surf spots

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Baleal has a handful of surf spots of its own. Most guides couple them together with Peniche because the area is seen as the nursery slope of that popular surf town. However, we think they are worth talking about distinct from Peniche simply because you can get away with a surf trip that’s 100% based in Baleal itself. Here’s what you’ll have on the doorstep…

Cantinho da Baia

This is the other side of Baleal Island from Praia do Baleal Norte. It’s a sweeping bay that has far more exposure to the main W and NW swells so will get big and can be a bit of a daunting paddle out. Summer surf schools come here after graduating from the smaller waves in Prainha. Generally speaking, the further south along Cantinho you go the bigger the sets get. E is offshore. Works on all tides but best on the push.

Praia do Baleal Norte

Get to know Praia do Baleal Norte well – this will likely be your main playground if you join a surf camp in Baleal or even Peniche. A north-facing beach that arcs around the headland where the old town of Baleal makes its home, it’s about 800m long in all. There’s space for two separate breaks, which are actually pretty different:

  • Prainha – This is the place where you’re likely to start out. It’s the easiest wave in Baleal and pretty much all of Peniche, mainly thanks to the high levels of protection that’s offered by Baleal island that sits immediately to the west. NW-W swells bend around the rocks there and filter into the bay to give nice clean sets that you can ride in any direction, though we’d say that the lefts are better. Try not to stick too close into the cliff as there’s a small rip. Crowds come by midday so dawnies are best.
  • Lagide – The middle section of Praia do Baleal Norte sees a bit of extra size on any swell direction to Prainha. You can move in here to start scoring slightly larger green waves when you’re ready.

Gigi

Gigi Beach is one along from Praia do Baleal Norte. It’s a stretch of about 390m that offers extra space. During the smaller summer months, it’s known as one of the finest longboard waves in town, mainly because dominant W swells are tempered a lot this far beyond the Baleal island.

Peniche

Peniche has a whole clutch of other surf spots. It’s 10 minutes’ drive from the center of Baleal. Perhaps the most famous is Supertubos, a tuck-in barrel shorebreak that’s often on the cover of surf mags. But there are multiple peaks for all levels scattered down Praia do Molhe Leste all the way to Praia da Consolação.

We’ve got a complete guide to surfing in Peniche

Surf camps in Baleal

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One of the reasons that we think Baleal is worth a whole separate guide on its own is that it’s now home to some of the very best beginner surf camps in the country.

That’s really saying something in Portugal, where there are thousands on offer. Sadly, the selection is now muddied by some that aren’t so great. But we can recommend the following for sure…

  • 8 Day Breathtaking Surf and Yoga Holiday in Peniche at The Salty Pelican – The Salty Pelican’s newest addition to the seafront just south of Balean is an uber-cool hostel-poshtel-hotel that has walking access to some of the best beginner waves in Portugal. They do this package that’s based on UNLIMTED board rental and UNLIMITED yoga, plus 5x surf lessons throughout the week. We rank it as the best surf camp in the country for a reason!
  • 4 Day Exciting Surf Camp in Baleal Beach at Alex Surf Hostel – The Alex Surf Hostel is pretty sweet stuff. It’s a modern spot with a grassy garden and sleek rooms. There’s a big common space to help you meet and greet other surfers, who will surely be big pals by the end of it all. This four-day package includes three days of surf lessons, and usually some sessions on the waves of Peniche if people improve enough.

We also have a complete guide to the top surf camps in Portugal for 2024, some of which – mainly for the beginner crowd – are in Baleal and Peniche.

A note on why we partner with BookSurfCamps.com: Book Surf Camps are probably the biggest online aggregator of surf camps and surf-yoga packages in the world. We sounded out a quite a few potential partners before we affiliated with them. But, in the end, the abundance of choice for beginners, intermediates, and female-only surfing sealed it. We also love the simplicity of their booking system and the trusted brand name, along with the focus on connecting with homegrown local businesses on the ground.

Want more baleal surf camp options? Search the whole shebang below right now and book in a few clicks.

Where to stay when surfing in Baleal?

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There’s a fantastic array of surf hotels in Baleal these days. Many have arrived precisely because the town is now considered one of the very best of the learner spots in the country. We think you want to focus on the options that string down the main road away from the beach and the places close to the old town of Baleal Island, though they are likely to be a touch more expensive.

The Wave Baleal

The Wave Baleal gets you literally a stone’s throw from the peeling beginner waves of Praia do Baleal Norte. A cozy surf lodge with a proper Portuguese look to it, it has apartments and doubles that open to face the Atlantic. The joint is in the old town of Baleal – the most charming part of the whole place

Surfness Lodge

A proper surf lodge that’s perched up on the cliffs at the eastern end of the main beach, this one’s great for access to Gigi and Lagide. We love the vibe and the view from the terrace, from where you can check the surf conditions at a glance.

Captains Log House

The budget option, Captains Log House is a fun-filled B&B with hostely vibes that dots the main road leading away from Balean center.

Step-by-step guide to planning your baleal surf trip right now

Step one: Book flights to the baleal surf…Lately, we like Omio for searching flights. It’s a nice interface and has lots of airline options. We also use Skyscanner because that sometimes offers deals that even beat going direct to the carrier!

Step two: Book your surf camp Book Surf Camps is the numero uno online booking platform for fully-fledged surf-stay packages on the internet right now. Then there’s Booking.com. That has consistently unbeatable rates for hotels and a nifty map feature that lets you check EXACTLY how close your hotel is to a surf break.

Step three: Get insuranceThis is kinda’ important. Not just for surf trips but for any trips. SafetyWing is great for nomad travelers. They offer rolling contracts that cover amateur surfing.

Step four (optional): Rent a car If you’re surf camping then you might not need wheels. If you’re not then we’ll just say this: We’ve never been on a surf trip that wasn’t improved by having our own car. Use RentalCars – they’re the best.

Step five: Enjoy!

For paying for stuff when you’re travelingGet a Wise borderless card/account. They charge NOTHING for POS payments in any country and have some of the best FX rates around in our humble opinion.

Surf lessons in Baleal

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Baleal is a great place to do surf lessons.

In fact, as we’ve already mentioned, we think it’s one of the best places to come as a complete learner (perhaps only the Algarve is better) or intermediate improver (maybe only Ericiera’s south beaches beat it!) in the country.

A lot of that is down to the north- and west- facing beaches, which mean there’s usually somewhere sheltered and a bit smaller than the main swell.

Surf schools know all that, which is why there are 100s in the area. Most are based either in or around Baleal for a reason, you know! Pre-booking is a great idea for any trips between May and October, because classes are in high demand between those times. Check out…

  • Surf Experience in Peniche (don’t worry, it’s actually in Baleal!) – These guys run a highly-rated surf lesson package that can be tailored to all levels. Surfboards and wetty included. They meet at the bar just at the entrance to Baleal village. All in for under $50 isn’t bad!
  • Surfing Lessons with Experienced Instructors – A better pick when it’s smaller in the summer or if you’re after bigger waves, this one is a 90-minute lesson that tends to focus on the west-facing beaches south of Baleal.

When to surf in Baleal?

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There’s surf all year round in Baleal. The biggest swells come from the fall onwards, with strong NW swells hitting between October and March most years. That doesn’t disqualify any would-be learners looking to do a surf school entirely. There’s lots of whitewash to keep you going plus there’s more protection on the north-facing beaches here than in virtually any other surf destination on the central Portuguese coast.

That said, we’d still recommend the spring and the summer months for total beginners. they offer smaller, easier waves and less wind, which is a real doozy since it can churn up the sets here like it’s nobody’s business. Book early for then, through – Peniche and Baleal are like the Hossegor of PT (AKA: It’s popular).

We might use affiliate links in this post. Basically, you click em’ and we get a little something from your booking or purchase. They help us keep offering more and more in-depth surf guides to awesome places all around the globe. So, thanks for that!

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Joseph Richard Francis

Joe “Rich” Francis has been surfing for the best part of 15 years. He’s nowhere near as good as he should be at the end of all that, but hey ho. Born and bred in Swansea, South Wales (the current base of The Surf Atlas), Joe is a seasoned adventure travel writer with completed publications in the surf-travel and adventure-travel sphere for major publications like Lonely Planet and The Culture Trip.

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The Ultimate Guide to Baleal Surf - Surf Atlas (2024)

FAQs

What is the hardest part of learning to surf? ›

Paddling out

Many people will tell you that this is the hardest part of surfing. Depending on the conditions, paddling out can be a walk in the park or feel like the most intense workout you've ever done.

Where to surf in Baleal? ›

The beach in between Baleal and Peniche is called Praia do Baleal Sul. On this 4-kilometer-long beach you find multiple peaks for all surf levels. The surf spots on the south side of the beach (so closest to the town of Peniche) are called Gambôa and Cerro.

Is Peniche good for surfing? ›

Peniche is suitable for beginners and for the world's best surfers. A great place to go and discover surfing in Portugal. The only drawback is that it can be busy. But that is not without reason.

Is 21 too old to learn how to surf? ›

It is never, ever too late to learn to surf (or do anything else you may have a deep desire to try).

Is 52 too old to learn to surf? ›

Learning to surf at 40, 50, and beyond may feel like a daunting task. But you're never too old to fall in love with something new, particularly when it's something as rewarding and inviting as surfing. You might be surprised to hear that many older adults learn to surf later in life.

Where is Killer's surf spot? ›

“It's a cold water Paradise,” says Jesús Salazar, a surf photographer from Baja California, Mexico. He refers to Todos Santos (aka “Killers”), the infamous big wave surf spot on the island of the same name situated roughly 20kms (12miles) off the coast of Ensenada.

What is the most famous surf spot? ›

10 Best Surf Spots in the World
  • Gold Coast, Australia. ...
  • Jeffrey's Bay, South Africa. ...
  • Bukit Peninsula, Bali, Indonesia. ...
  • Malibu, California, USA. ...
  • Oahu, Hawaii, USA. ...
  • Ericeira, Portugal. ...
  • Hossegor, France. ...
  • Santa Cruz, California, USA.

Where is the impossibles surf spot? ›

Impossibles is a left-hand reef break located between Padang Padang and Bingin. The wave races along the reef and usually a few sections are makeable. But oftentimes the wave will outrun you.

What is the history of Baleal? ›

Baleal, which was once an island too, owes its name to having formerly been a centre where whales (“Baleia”, in Portuguese) were butchered and cut in the Middle Ages. The whale meat was then hauled to Atouguia da Baleia harbour.

Where is Baleal, Portugal? ›

Baleal is a small island located 3 kilometres (1.9 miles) north of Peniche, in the Oeste region of Portugal, separated from the mainland by a tombolo.

Can you surf in Cabo Mexico? ›

With its variety of beaches, diverse point breaks, and large swell window, Cabo is undeniably a paradise for surfers of all skill levels.

Where is the surfing capital of the world? ›

What's the surfing capital of the world? While we have covered the top ten best surfing destinations, none comes close to the Pichilemu beach. Popularly known as the world's surf capital, it is located at the centre of Chile, just near the coastal fishing village.

Can anyone surf at Nazaré? ›

Only the bravest and most experienced should consider surfing here, however. Probably only about 100 people on the planet are prepared or have the courage to surf waves as high as 30 meters (98ft), and it takes years of experience.

Why Brazilians are so good at surfing? ›

The sport's soaring popularity was also owed- at least in part- to a set of hugely favourable geographic and cultural factors. Consider for example, the sheer number of people who had access to Brazil's 4.6 thousand miles of coastline and the ultra-consistent waves which broke along it.

What is the hardest thing to do in surfing? ›

In this article, we will discuss the most difficult maneuvers in surfing and what makes them so challenging.
  • The Barrel. The barrel is considered the holy grail of surfing maneuvers. ...
  • The Air. ...
  • The Cutback. ...
  • The Floater. ...
  • The Re-Entry. ...
  • The Tube Ride. ...
  • The Bottom Turn.

Why is learning to surf so hard? ›

From mastering the popup, reading waves to navigating the lineup and brutal paddle outs, surfing can at times be a hard sport to become good at. Being condition based, it's not always up to you when you get to surf making that all important practise time difficult. Patience pays dividends, however.

How difficult is surfing for beginners? ›

Learning to surf is one of the most challenging things you are likely to ever attempt, but it is also one of the most fulfilling. Expect to struggle at first, but don't give up. You will get it eventually, and when you do, it will be more than worth it!

Is surfing the hardest sport to learn? ›

Pubity Sport asked its 2.3 million followers in a bracket-style voting competition to rate the world's most difficult sports, and surfing was amongst the top contenders. In the end, surfing landed in the number two spot, leaving the top honor for “world's hardest sport” to football, or in American parlance, soccer.

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