If you're a skincare enthusiast, you've probably heard of or even tried dermarolling. The at-home skincare treatment utilizes a device with tiny needles to puncture the skin to boost collagen, improve product absorption, and even fade dark spots. As it turns out, the benefits of using a dermaroller extend to scalp and hair health, says Helen Reavey, a celebrity hairstylist and the founder of Act+Acre.
Reavey's the expert on dermarolling, especially as it pertains to your scalp—because she actually does it herself. After seeing a video of Reavey dermarolling on Instagram, we were curious to find out how exactly it helps her locks as well as the right way to do it.
We spoke with Reavey and a slew of experts to answer all our questions and learn more about the benefits of dermarolling for hair, ahead.
What Is Dermarolling for the Scalp?
Dermarolling the scalp is the process of causing trauma to the skin to trigger increased blood flow, says Afope Atoyebi, a certified trichologist. "When used correctly, the increased blood flow and release of growth factors can stimulate hair growth as well as increase the thickness and density of the hair," Atoyebi adds.
The Benefits of Dermarolling for Hair
According to our experts, there are several benefits of dermarolling the scalp—whether you do it as an at-home treatment or in tandem with other hair growth therapies:
Promotes Hair Growth
Reavey explains that the micro-tears caused in the skin trigger the production of stem cells, which speed up natural hair growth hormones. "Hair grows at half an inch per month, maximum, and slower sometimes if you aren't getting enough nutrients in your diet, [experience high] stress, or have some scalp concerns," says Reavey. "Dermarolling and using scalp treatments is the only way to speed up hair growth."
Enhances Hair Products
Similar to skincare, the tiny punctures in the skin also help with product absorption, which iswhy dermarolling the scalp is proven beneficialwhen combined with haircare products and other treatments.
"When rolled over the scalp or hairline, a dermaroller makes it easier for the active ingredients of topicals and oils to reach the hair follicles," saysGretchen Friese, a certified trichologist forBosleyMD.
Improves Scalp Health
In addition to increased hair growth, density, and thickness, a dermaroller can also encourage collagen production, stimulate cell turnover, and improve scalp circulation. This provides a healthier environment for hair to grow, says Friese.
Who It's For
Most people will see benefits to dermarolling their scalp, says Atoyebi. However, it may be less effective for those experiencing late stages of hair loss or total baldness, Atoyebi adds. Similarly, dermarolling could be problematic for those who have seborrheic dermatitis (a type of eczema that usually affects the scalp), dandruff, eczema, and psoriasis. Since these are already inflammatory to the scalp, dermarolling "could worsen the condition or result in an infection," Atoyebi tells InStyle. In this case, "It's best to see your dermatologist and treat these conditions before dermarolling," advises Azadeh Shirazi, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist.
How to Use a Dermaroller on Your Scalp
Get The Right Tools
According to Atoyebi, your dermarolling needles should be between 0.8 and 1.5 millimeters. "Using needles that exceed this length can go too deep into the dermis and damage the hair follicle," Atoyebi says, adding that this can "worsen the condition the dermarolling intended to remedy."
Make Sure Your Scalp Is Clean
Reavey says it's best to use a dermaroller on a clean, wet scalp. The point of dermarolling is to help your hair grow, so you want to create a good environment for it to do that. Imagine your new strands grew out with all the gunk that accumulates in your follicles before wash days...no, thank you.
Use Gentle Motions
You'll need to prep your hair before you take the tool to your scalp. Start by parting your hair to match the width of your dermaroller. "Parting the hair will help to ensure the needles can puncture the scalp adequately without getting caught in the hair and potentially damaging it," says Atoyebi. Then, gently roll the tool front to back once before doing it side to side. Friese recommends rolling over the same area four to five times before moving onto another section.
Don't Overdo It
Like many skin and hair care treatments, dermarolling frequency varies from person to person."The shorter the needles, like 0.25 millimeters, the more often you can use it," says Friese, recommending use every two to three days. For longer needles, like 1.5 millimeters, she suggests every couple of weeks since it punctures more deeply.
Regardless of your hair type or particular scalp condition, be careful not to overdo it. "Dermarolling more often doesn't mean improved or quicker results," says Atoyebi, adding that "doing so too frequently can cause short-term shedding" and irreversible damage.
Risks and Side Effects
According to the U.S. Food & Drug Administration, one of the main risks of dermarolling is skin damage—like "bleeding, bruising, redness, tightness, itching and peeling." However, these should go away in a few weeks tops. The FDA adds that more serious risks include "spots on the skin, lines on the face, a flareup of cold sores, swollen lymph nodes, and infection."
It's also important to note that these risks are higher with at-home treatments versus in-office. To minimize potential risks and side effects, we recommend seeking out a trained professional to perform a microneedling treatment on your scalp.
Aftercare
Opt for a product that targets your hair concerns. For example, if you experience androgenetic alopecia, Friese says you'll want to follow up with a product containing minoxidil, like the BosleyMD Hair Regrowth Treatment.
To maintain hair healthy and growing, you can also opt for a hydrating serum. We recommend the Act+Acre Cold Processed Stem Cell Serum, which is a lightweight formula that feels refreshing on the scalp and also helps reduce hair thinning, dryness, and fallout, while protecting against sun damage and pollution.
Post-care also includes cleaning and properly storing your tools. "Clean your device with rubbing alcohol after each use and be sure it's dry before you place it back in the case," says Dr. Shirazi. Once back in the case, store it in a cool and dry area.
